Danny's TR7 Blog

[More:]

After various posts on the discussion boards it was decided to remove the engine from below and raise the body. BTW thanks to all on the forums who helped in this decision.

The following is the step by step method I used.

I first reversed the car on to ramps and then raised the front on to axle stands, positioned next to the front jacking points, so as to give me a working space underneath.

While inside the car remove the gearstick gaiter and gearstick, watch that the small spring and plunger at the bottom of the gearstick doesn't fly out and go walkabout, mine did and it took ages to find.

I protected the wings with bubble wrap and cardboard.
When I disconnected a fitting/bolt/hose this was labeled and written on a sheet of paper for use when the reassembly eventually came. The bonnet does not have to be removed which I think is an advantage using this method of engine removal, also the front bumper was left in place.

Remove front wheels

Working from above the following was disconnected (D)or removed (R).
1.R battery
2.R vacuum pipe rear of air cleaner to intake manifold
3.R vacuum pipe rear of air cleaner to Temprature sensor
4.R air cleaner
5.D vacuum hose intake manifold to servo
6.D fuel line, tie clear and clamp the rubber hose
7.D distributor W/B wire
8.D choke cable to front carb
9.D throttle cable
10.D oil pressure light wire
11.D oil pressure gauge pipe
12.D alternator wires
13.D temp gauge sensor wire below thermostat
14.R radiator hose top to thermostat
15.R radiator hose bottom to water pump
16.D heater hose top at heater end
17.D heater hose bottom at engine end
18.D hose expansion tank to thermostat
19.R viscous fan 4 bolts (1 is hidden)
20.D steering column at rack end
Working from below
1.R clutch slave cylinder and tie clear
2.R propshaft bolts (I had to raise one rear wheel to turn the shaft to get all bolts)
3.D exhaust pipe brackets to gearbox and bell housing
4.R exhaust down pipe(move exhaust to the side)
5.R exhaust manifold lower bolts
6.R speedo cable
7.D reverse light switch wiring (connector)
Also while under the car the bottom bellhousing bolts can be removed as acces is difficult once engine is on the trolly
Working from above again
1.R exhaust manifold (I think this possibly could have been left in place, but it has to be removed later anyway during the strip down.)
2.R starter motor wiring

A trolly was pushed under the subframe, engine and gearbox and the space between was taken up with wooden blocks and wedges.
1.D right side engine mounting, additional blocks had to be placed between the engine and subframe to keep it level.
2.D the subframe mountings
3.D the 4 gearbox to body mounting nuts
4.D brake hoses to both front brake calipers, I sealed the master cylinfer with a thin rubber glove and lost very little fluid
5.R the 3 nuts from the top of each suspension turret.

The BIG Lift
For this I engaged the help of my eldest son Daniel, who also enjoys driving the TR7
A couple of strong beams were placed on top of two of the garage roof joist to help spread the weight of the body a chain block was slung from this. A strong rope was secured to the two towing eyes under the bumper(this was protected by cardboard and rubber mats)and the hook othe chain block attached.
While Daniel heaved on the purchase of the chainblock I watched as the body was lifted clear of the subframe, making sure nothing was still attached.. Once clear the trolly was pulled out complete with engine gearbox & suspension attached to the subframe. Everything went well and would recomend this method of engine removal..