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- Replacing the floor
pan plug
(by Kyle)
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After a run in my FHC
which hadn’t been on the road for over a year and had been exposed
to the elements, I discovered that my foot had partially gone through
the floor (I know people say the best way to get the most out of standard
2.0 litre engine is to put your boot to the floor, but this was ridiculous!).
luckily a close inspection revealed that all was well with the floor
pan itself but the metal floor pan plug had parted company with the
floor and was trying to force its way out unto the ground. It was going
to need replaced. The picture below shows a rusty floor pan plug on
another car which has at some stage had the sound deadening material
removed.
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Pic of rusted floor pan plug |
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A
check at the passenger’s floor pan plugs condition left me with
the conclusion that it would be smart to do both plugs. The first and
most arduous task is the removal of the bitumenesque sound deadening material
that covers that area of the floor. Here’s what I did and it should
work for you. Using a Stanley knife mark out a square section about 1
foot square. Then lap a fire blanket around the fuel pipe which runs underneath
and off to the left of the floor panel on the driver’s side and
soak underside with water. The best tool I found to remove the mastic
was a hot air gun, as used for removing paint off window sills, accompanied
with a metal scraper. Then finish off if necessary with a wire brush in
an electric drill to tidy up edges. At this stage the new plug can be
offered up for fitting in place. I have seen these welded, riveted and
siliconed into place but I reckon the very best method of securing these
and preventing future leaks is to use windscreen bonding. Smear it liberally
all around the edges of both the aperture and the replacement bung, place
it firmly into place and a small tin of paint on top of it to keep it
in position while the sealant cures. Once dry apply seam sealer around
the lip above and below the bung then paint with protective paint above
and below floor pan. |
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Windscreen bonding |
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Now
cut 1 foot square of new sound deadening material and trial fit before removing
self adhesive backing film. Remove the backing film and apply to floor.
I have found that as the material is very brittle it is best to use the
hot air gun or a hairdryer to heat up the material making it pliant. A spatula
will help ease out the edges to meet the old material while keeping the
heat applied. Now the floor can be colour coded. |
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