About Us
The Cars
Gallery
Downloads
Articles
Competitions
For Sale
Links
Guestbook
HOME
Email Us


  • Replacing the fuel sender unit
    (by Kyle)
The WaringstownTR7 mechanic
 
 
 
     
 

Before tackling this job it is good practice to have your fuel tank as empty as possible. First and most importantly disconnect the battery earth. You will soon be confronting hanging wires and spilled petrol so it is better to be safe than barbequed. With the handbrake on and car in gear raise the car up at the back as high as possible unto axle stands. The best place for the jack and axle stands is somewhere along the rear trailing arms.

 
     
  Car jacked up
Pic of car safely jacked up onto stands with drip tray in place
 
 

 
 

With the car securely raised you may now disconnect the three electrical connectors (marking them so you know where to refit them)and fuel pipe from the sender unit. Before you do this however have a suitable receptacle below the pipe to catch fuel as it will soon be spilling out. N.B. The fuel tank is in behind the rear bulkhead and can only be reached from below the car. The sender unit is at the front of the tank. The fuel pipe (if it still has the original fitment rather than a jubilee clip) has a sprung connector with two lugs on one side and one lug on the other level with the centre of the other two. Two slide this clip back and off the sender unit’s connection pipe you must bring the three lugs together any means you can. I succeeded with a pair of pliers with a broad end. As soon as you pull back the rubber pipe from the metal connection pipe on the fuel sender unit the petrol will flow out of it. Leave the fuel to drain off in as safe an environment as possible. This could take some time as the flow is steady but slow.

 
 
 
 
Sender in situ
Pic of fuel sender unit in situ
 
     
  After the fuel has stopped flowing the sender retaining clip can be removed. This hollow centre circular clip has three raised lugs (refer to photo were one of the lugs has been outlined in white). There is a tool specific to the removal of this clip but a rubber hammer will do the same job. I didn’t have a rubber hammer and certainly didn’t want to be hitting metal against metal beside a fuel tank so I lapped the end of a standard hammer with masking tape. Please note that when the clip starts to move and the seal is broken that more fuel will leak out as the fuel previously only drained out to the level of the pipe, now it is draining to the level of the bottom of the sender unit, so have your fuel catcher ready. The lugs should be tapped in an anti-clockwise direction until the fuel starts to flow then leave the car until the fuel draining stops. Now tap the lug anti-clockwise again until the clip can be removed. The sender unit may now be extacted.  
     
 
Retainer
Close up pic of the retainer
 
     
  To remove the unit from the tank simply pull it out and while twisting your hand unto its back pull downwards and back until the gauze covered fuel pick-up is visible. Once this part is out you will have to twist your hand sideways so the back of your hand is facing the drivers side of the car then move it sideways towards the front of the car to extract the float form the tank. You should have in your hand something very like the item in the photograph below (please note retaining clip is also pictured, rubber seal is not). At this stage check the rubber seal to see whether it needs replacing. Check the operation of the float and if it is suspect then replace the unit. If all seems to be well be sure to clean up the electrical connector spades to prevent/cure electrical faults. Also, check the connector ends of the now loose hanging wires and replace the ends if deemed necessary.  
     
 
New unit
Pic of sender unit and retaining clip
 
     
  Replacing the sender in the tank is pretty much the reverse of removal. The tricky part can be getting the retaining clip back on. The lug closest to the pipe is virtually impossible to strike so I pushed in hard at the area where it and the northerly most lug were situated while striking the other lug back clockwise. Make sure all three “corners” of the clip are properly housed in the aperture before connecting the fuel pipe, leads and topping up the tank with some petrol so you can check for leaks around the seal. If all is well then the car can be lowered to the ground, the battery connected and the car topped up with some fuel. You can now check the operation of your gauge.

Remember, Safety First!

 
     
 
Click here to return to the Technical Menu Return to top of page